High above the world’s most unforgiving landscapes, where oxygen thins and every step demands calculation, Sajid Ali Sadpara has quietly carved out a place among the most accomplished high-altitude climbers of his generation. From becoming the first Pakistani to summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and Sherpa support, to achieving oxygen-free ascents of Annapurna and Mount Manaslu, and most recently marking his 10th 8000er on Mount Makalu, his journey is defined not only by summits but by endurance, loss, and an unrelenting relationship with risk. Born into the legacy of legendary climber Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Sajid’s story is inseparable from the mountains that shaped him and the personal grief that followed. Yet beyond records and recognition, his perspective reveals a quieter truth about high-altitude life, one that exists between isolation and purpose, discipline and devotion, ambition and inheritance. In this conversation, he speaks about risk, resilience, and what it truly means to return to the highest places on earth again and again, not just as a climber, but as someone still searching for meaning in the silence above the clouds.
You have just completed your 10th 8000er with the summit of Mount Makalu. You’re on a mission to complete all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen, something only a handful globally have attempted. What drives that level of endurance and commitment over years?
I am a professional mountaineer and was born in the mountains. I carry a legacy in this field from my ancestors and my parents. I am the son of Muhammad Ali Sadpara, and I received my early training from my father. I live in a mountainous region and have done many climbing expeditions, including winter climbs, oxygen-free ascents, and other high-altitude adventures. The main quality required to be a good mountaineer is taking risks. Everything comes down to risk. When you climb without oxygen in the 8000-meter death zone, you feel extreme exhaustion and face severe environmental conditions. The cold and lack of oxygen affect both mind and body. It is about endurance, taking one step after another, sometimes walking 15 to 20 hours or more before reaching the summit. The descent is equally difficult because your mind is not functioning properly at that stage. We prepare ourselves mentally and build confidence through experience, as we have climbed many mountains before. That experience helps us understand these conditions better, but the main factor remains risk. We put our lives in danger in many ways, and that is how we are able to climb the world’s highest peaks.
When you became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and Sherpa support in 2023, what did that moment represent for you personally beyond the historic milestone?
When I summited Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and Sherpa support in 2023, it was a very big achievement for me, especially as the first Pakistani to do so. In that season, only two climbers from around the world managed this feat, and I was one of them, despite around 500 to 600 international mountaineers and nearly 900 Sherpas attempting the climb in such extreme conditions. Reaching the highest point on Earth without oxygen, in pure alpine style, was a huge milestone and I felt very happy and proud. It was not only a personal achievement but also a proud moment for Pakistan. Unfortunately, there is still limited awareness about mountaineering and adventure sports in our country, even though we have some of the highest mountains in the world, including K2 and Nanga Parbat. Overall, it was a very significant moment for me as a young mountaineer, and it showed the international climbing community that Pakistan has athletes capable of performing at the highest level without oxygen support.
You also became the first Pakistani to climb Annapurna without supplemental oxygen, one of the most dangerous peaks in the world. How do you mentally process risk when choosing your objectives?
It’s all about risk. We sometimes risk almost 60 to 70 percent of our lives, and we know it is very critical and dangerous. When I was climbing Annapurna in 2023, I reached the summit on 14 April after a 15 to 16 hour push in very bad weather. Many climbers were trapped around Camp 4, which is the last camp before the summit. I was with my Brazilian friend Moses, and we were both climbing without oxygen, completely exhausted and taking one step at a time with short rests. I eventually reached the summit in a critical condition, and felt a brief sense of relief and achievement. On the descent, around 20 meters below the summit, Moses decided to turn back as he could not continue without oxygen, and I was also in a very exhausted state, so I descended as well. I do not remember everything clearly because I was extremely drained, and after reaching Camp 4 I slept there for a night as my body was completely exhausted. The descent itself was very slow and difficult, but we are mentally prepared for such situations as professional mountaineers. Annapurna is one of the deadliest mountains in the world, and summiting it without oxygen was a very proud and personal achievement for me.
After the loss of your father, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, the mountains hold a deeply personal meaning. Has your relationship with them changed over time, or has it strengthened your resolve?
I lost my father on K2. It was a very emotional moment for me because he was not only my father but also my climbing partner, friend, and teammate. We used to climb together in the mountains, including K2. When I lost him and two other companions, I was very young, around 22 years old, and it was extremely difficult for me. Five months later, I returned to K2 for a search mission, where we found the bodies and I buried them at Camp 4. I even saw my father during that operation. It was painful, but he passed away doing what he loved most, the mountains, and I believe he died in the place he was most passionate about. Since then, I feel I am carrying his legacy forward, and in many climbs I feel he is with me. After his death, my mother was very worried and told me to quit mountaineering and choose a safer profession. But I am a professional mountaineer. I convinced her that I climb for my father, and that he would be happy to see me climbing high peaks, even from the heavens.
You have repeatedly chosen to climb without supplemental oxygen even when it significantly increases risk. What does that decision mean to you personally?
Climbing a mountain without oxygen is something people see differently. Some climbers choose to use supplemental oxygen to stay safer, and that approach is also valid. But for me, it feels different. When I climb using only my own strength, without external support, relying fully on my capability and in true alpine style, it brings a deeper sense of satisfaction. Reaching the summit without oxygen feels more authentic, like a pure form of mountaineering. I feel a strong sense of fulfillment doing it because I believe I am an experienced and physically capable mountaineer, and this style gives me more meaning. Of course, it is a personal choice and every climber has their own approach, but
in today’s increasingly commercialized mountaineering world, very few attempt climbs without oxygen. I am one of them, and for me it remains the most authentic way to experience high-altitude mountaineering.
Do you feel that Pakistani mountaineers receive adequate government or institutional support? What kind of backing would actually make a meaningful difference?
Pakistan is a country with an extraordinary number of mountains. If you look at the world’s 100 highest peaks, around 60 are in Pakistan. The country is truly a mountain paradise, especially the northern regions. Despite this, there is still very little awareness about mountaineering and adventure sports. We do not have enough proper mountaineering schools, structured training programs, or certified mountain guides. International climbers and Sherpas often come to work on peaks like K2, while we still have not properly trained or developed our own youth in this field.
The government needs to give much more attention to mountaineering and adventure tourism. We have incredible mountains like K2 and Nanga Parbat, some of the most beautiful and highest peaks in the world,
along with more than 100 peaks above 7,000 meters and thousands of other high mountains. There is huge potential for tourism and economic growth through this sector, but there has not been enough development so far. We need to focus on training young people, building skills, establishing mountaineering schools, and creating greater awareness. Right now, Pakistan still does not have IFMGA-certified international mountain guides, so there is a lot of work that still needs to be done.
Your climbs often involve long periods of isolation. How do you mentally cope with that solitude, and what does a typical day on an expedition look like?
Expedition life and solitude in the mountains is something I have experienced many times, especially during winter expeditions where we can spend up to two months completely disconnected in remote regions and harsh environments. Over time, we become used to it. We have teammates and friends with us, and we stay focused on the mission ahead. Our days revolve around fixing ropes, establishing camps, acclimatization, and sleeping at high altitudes, so mentally we learn how to handle these situations. Nowadays, mountaineering in the summer season has become much more commercialized. For example, during my recent time at Mount Makalu, there were more than 100 climbers on the mountain, including many international and Nepali climbers. There are now many facilities available, including Starlink internet, showers, kitchen staff, good food, and comfortable tents, so conditions are much easier than they once were. But personally,
I feel happiest in the mountains. Being surrounded by snow-covered peaks makes me feel more connected to nature and more at peace mentally. Climbing gives me happiness and clarity, and as a professional mountaineer, I truly feel at home there.
You’ve become a symbol of resilience for many in Pakistan. Representing the country on some of the world’s highest peaks, do you feel a sense of responsibility beyond personal ambition?
Yes, as a Pakistani mountaineer, I do feel a sense of responsibility whenever I climb high peaks around the world. I climb mountains because it is my passion and because I truly love the mountains, but at the same time, it is also important for me to raise Pakistan’s flag on those peaks. That gives me a great sense of pride. In Pakistan, I run my own adventure company and guide expeditions while also pursuing personal climbing missions. But wherever I go, I represent Pakistan, and carrying my country’s flag on the world’s highest mountains is very meaningful to me. I believe every Pakistani should love and respect their country, and as mountaineers, we have the opportunity to represent Pakistan on the global stage through our achievements. It is a proud and fulfilling feeling for me to represent my country internationally through mountaineering.
When the climbs are over and the noise fades, who is Sajid away from the mountains?
The ice walls are high and the mountains are extremely challenging, but I feel most alive there. Whenever I return after spending two or three months in cities and see the snow again, I feel an emotional connection. Sometimes the feeling becomes so strong that it is difficult to explain. There is a kind of pull towards mountaineering, almost like an addiction, because you become attached to this adventurous life. It involves extreme cold, snow, and often climbing without oxygen, but there is something in it that keeps drawing us back. For me, the mountains are very close to my heart and I feel a deep emotional connection with them. At the same time, I am also responsible towards my family. I spend time with my mother, brother, and sister, and try to balance both worlds because I cannot stay in the mountains all the time. We climb in specific seasons and then return home. With age and experience, my perspective has also evolved, but even today the mountains remain deeply connected to my heart, mind, and life.
Interview: Safa Adnan
Photos: Courtesy Sajid Ali Sadpara